This just in from Robin Schwarz, on 22 October 2016:
My name is Robin. I used to raise Ostrichs and have a HRCP II. I only used it for one season so last time I had it on, it worked great. Still looks brand new and has been stored in a secured room. It has the computer and all the whistles. I paid $15,500.00 for the double unit and computer. If someone will pick it up I would sell it for $1500. It is in Hesperia, California USA. My phone number is:
760.953.6444 phone or text
Thanks for the help!
Robin L. Schwarz
Creative Writer and Author of "Little Rodeo Ronnie"
Automated Products & Supplies
210 Willmott St. Unit # 5, Cobourg, Ontario, K9A 0E9
Check out Trevor's nice work, rewiring an older model Hatchrite:
Hatchrite and humidifier
|Check out Jay's pictures and
rebuild notes below.
Here is his Email address:
||This is everything I have on the
CP50, compressed into one big file. If you download this, you do
NOT need the rest of the files here.
||CP50 Users manual (very basic)
in Microsoft Word format
||The original illustrations from
the manual. I have not had time to insert these into the DOC file
tuning/calibration procedure - very
useful if you replace the humidifier or your unit cannot hold
temp/humidity very well
||Original Hatchrite patent
filing. Some good technical drawings and overview, but not very
helpful for troubleshooting.
||Used to set up and monitor CP
series incubators. May work on other computer controllable
Hatchrites. Has massive Y2K problems and needs DOSBox.
Decompress with WinRAR. This is the complete contents of the
original factory floppy disk. The only program you really need
from the RAR is HATCHRIT.EXE. It expects an RS-422 interface on
COM2. See my notes on this page for more details.
||Basic information for the Watlow
controller used on an CP50 incubator. The HatchRite actually uses
a Watlow model 999 controller - a slightly customized version of the
988/989 unit developed for the HatchRite company. The documentation
here will work fine for the model 999.
||Full technical manual for the Watlow controller used on an CP50 incubator|
||Some additional information
about connecting external loads to the Watlow. Not very useful, but it
is small :-)
||Information on the data
communications protocols used to remotely control it. Used by the
CP50 control board to monitor/program the Watlow
|Roller belts - Fits mine, but
you should measure yours first
||Part number 3044K505, 3/16" x 10.75" urethane roller
belts are found at www.McMaster.com
for $5.38 a pop. The replacement
belts have been working in my unit for a couple years with no signs of
wear or cracking. There are measurement instructions on the
McMaster web site - basically you tie a string around the rollers and
then measure the string. See my photos for how you thread them
onto the rollers. Make sure they all twist the same way!
||Comair Rotron Tarzan TNE2A, 115
VAC 60Hz, 6 7/8" x 3 1/4" Frame Fan. I got mine used on eBay
($45), but you can also find similar ones on www.grainger.com.
If you want a new one, here is the factory part. These things are surprisingly fragile. Do NOT drop one, or the motor and fan blades will crack off from the frame and fall out! My old one shattered when I removed and accidentally dropped it a foot or two. Mounted in the unit, they should last 10 years. Any similar fan of the same voltage, size and CFM should work.
|Internal electrical parts,
computer chips and power management components for the motherboard
The top of each chip is marked with a part number.
Digikey carries just about all the chips and power control devices... except the CPU chip, which is mask-programmed. This makes the CPU chip irreplaceable, since there is no way to program a blank CPU with the same firmware. Most of the other chips, Triacs and Opto-Isolators, Triac drivers, Etc are a few cents a pop. Digikey has no minimum order and ships very quickly.
|RS-422 to USB interface
||Used to connect a Hatchrite
incubator to a computer so that you can monitor the temp/humidity,
change settings, Etc. This
is only available if your Hatchrite has the factory installed computer
interface. I got my RS-422 device at US Converters. The part number
for mine is U-485G ($65 + shipping), but you can get a cheaper,
non-isolated one for a lot less.
Set the converter up on COM2 if you want to use the old Hatchrite software. You will need to run the Hatchrite software in "DOSBox" if you are using a modern Windows computer. DOSBox is a free utility used by gamers interested in running vintage DOS games on modern PCs.
||Room #1 Temp/Humidity, Where
ttt=Temp F * 10, hhh= Humidity % * 10, n=Alarm Flags, xx=checksum
I think the checksum is a (really lame) sum of all the bytes. ttt=3 numeric ASCII characters, hhh=3 numerics, Etc. T899 = 89.9F.
I do not have a room sensor module connected to the room input, since one did not come with my unit. Reading a non-existent room sensor results in random T/H readings.
Temp/Humidity; Same protocol as above.
= 99.9F, 65% humidity, no alarms. Alarm flags do not appear to function properly in my unit. I don't bother with verifying the checksum in my software.
My unit can only give a valid reading every 30 seconds. If you query the unit when it is not ready, you will get one or more of the following results:
T555 = invalid temp reading - skip it
T000 = 100F - does not fit the T * 10 algorithm, but you can trap this in your code and translate it to 100.0F
H001 = invalid reading - skip it
||Set incubator #1 to
aaa degrees F setpoint, where 789=78.9F
bbb degrees F high-alarm point, where 678 = 67.8F
ccc degrees F low-alarm point
ddd percent humidity setpoint where 650 = 65.0%
eee percent humidity high alarm
fff percent humidity low alarm
gg hours on, internal light (not implemented on my CP-50)
hh hours off, internal light (not implemented on my CP-50)
iii hours between egg rolls where 123 = 12.3 hours
jj seconds of egg roll time
Sets the unit to 99.9F, 65% Humidity, with temperature alarm points 99.9F (high) and 96.0F low; Humidity alarms set to 75% high and 55% low. Roll eggs for 14 seconds, every 6 hours.
My web site lists part numbers for belts and other parts that wear out here:
If you are missing other parts then you will have to make them or cannibalize another Hatchrite unit. The Hatchrite company went out of business years ago, so buying parts from them is not an option. Luckily, most to the parts that are likely to wear out are available from places like Grainger Industrial Supply, eBay and Amazon.
Sorry but roller installation is going to be a headache - there are dozens of hex nuts that attach them to the drawers. If I recall correctly, the roller brackets are held on with hexagonal nuts. You can get the nuts at Home Depot or Lowes. Buy them by the box - they are cheaper than the little plastic bags of hex nuts.
There are way too many nuts (40-80 of them I think) to hand-tighten with a wrench. Therefore, I recommend using a nut driver socket attached to a power drill. Use a very low torque setting or you will strip the threads on the mounting hardware. You will probably need to loosen and re-tighten them a few times until you get the spacing just right. Be careful: There are sharp edges on the drawers that can slice you up.
Make sure that the rollers are mounted "square" with the drawer and they are perfectly parallel. Otherwise your eggs will "walk" to one end of the rollers or the other while you are incubating them. It is not good to let the eggs rub together as they roll.
You need to space the rollers for the type of eggs you are going to hatch. You space them as you attach the roller brackets and rollers to the drawers. The brackets are actually the bearings for the rollers. The belts are attached as you install each roller. One special roller is the "drive" roller that runs perpendicular to the egg rollers. You can barely see it in the photos - it runs underneath the egg rollers. Each egg roller will have a rubber belt that connects it to the drive "roller". Each belt needs to be installed with a quarter-twist (like an open figure-8). The twist direction does not matter, but all the belts must be twisted in the same direction (clockwise/counterclockwise). The drive roller has a "T" shaped end to it that fits into the drive motor socket. The motor turns the drive roller and the belts that are wrapped around the drive roller transmits the rotation to each of the egg rollers. The drive roller looks similar to the egg rollers, but it is slightly longer or shorter (I don't recall) than the egg rollers. Don't lose the drive roller - they are very hard to come by.
You probably want to install the drive roller last. Just let the belts hang down from the egg rollers until the spacing is adjusted properly. Then thread the drive roller through all of the belts, giving each belt a quarter-twist in the same direction. I am working from memories from 10-12 years ago, so you may have to experiment if I am wrong. :-[
Bottom Line: You should be able to turn the drive roller by hand and all the egg rollers should spin in the same direction. If not, you have a belt that was twisted wrong.
Here are some photos of belts and rollers on a functional Hatchrite:
Notice the quarter-twist in the belt between the egg roller and the drive roller found underneath:
Replacement egg rollers and brackets are going to be hard to come by. The brackets could be made out of aluminum sheet metal and a plastic tube the size of the roller shaft bearing. The rollers themselves are going to be anywhere from difficult to impossible to find, unless you buy another Hatchrite and tear it down for parts. If you have brackets for only one factory-stock drawer then you may not be able to fully populate it with enough rollers for smaller eggs.If I had to make new rollers, I'd buy aluminum tubing and cover it with neoprene - something like SCUBA diving suit material. The end caps and spindles would have to be made on a lathe. Doable, but tedious
The newer models with the roll timer software built in the Watlow controllers, I took those boards out. To replace I used a cheap 15 volt dc power supply and 25 amp Normally open, zero switching, solid state relays for the heater and humidifier circuits. For the high heat limit I used a 25 amp normally closed, zero switching solid state relay and loop the hot leg in series with the normally open relay for the heat. It must be first in line to the incoming power. Editors note: Search eBay for "solid state relay zero crossing". Expect to pay about $5-$20 USD
On the dc signal side of the relays, your controllers produce a dc signal to call for heat or humidifier. You just hook those up straight to the relays from the controllers. Make sure polarity is correct. Do not tie the power supply to the signal side of the relay!
For the low water switch on the humidifiers I used a simple low amp relay( cheap) that is normally closed. The float valve in the humidifier are closed when there is water present. So wire the relay so that is opens the circuit if the humidifier runs out of water. You get your power from the dc power supply.
For roll timers I used a ATC model 422ar. They are panel mount. I installed a normally closed 8 amp push button on the panel for the roll test. The incubators have terminal strips already in place to tie your hot, neutral and ground to find power easily. I then used a bistable relay which flips for clockwise and counterclockwise. Its model number is s90r11abd-120 from TE Connectivity. The wiring is self explanatory with the instruction from the timer.
For alarms I used a simple dc powered buzzer and connects directly to the Watlow controllers relay contacts. The Watlows have a relay built in for each channel for the alarm circuit. (check your controller model number to verify)
For the temp and humid transmitter in the incubator, which sends a signal to the controller in 4-20ma dc (for all the Hatchrites I have rebuilt). I used a water proof transmitter from Omega.com Model HX303AC. These are not cheap but you have to have it for good control. They are $225. They are the cheapest quality transmitter I can find. What I have found on the transmitters that Hatchrite used is they get wet and shorts out the humidifier signal side. Especially the bottom unit on a stack unit. The cabinet sweats between the outside and inside panels.
Light circuits just hook up through the switch that is on the panel anyway. I dont know why they hooked those up to a relay on the board. Editors note: The lights were turned on/off by a timer on the main logic board on some early units, presumably so that newly hatched chicks could read books and visit with their friends while waiting to be rescued from the HatchRite.
I installed a device on my incubators that is called a iServer model ithx-sd that send me a text to my cell phone if it goes into alarm.
This is not the cheapest way to go, but you still have the precise control for the incubator that will last a long time.
If you want model numbers for all the parts send me a email back and I will compile a list.
My motto is the KISS method. Which means keep it simple stupid.